The Chalk Review

Ever since John Gill introduced the use of gymnastics chalk to the sport back in the 1960s, chalk has been a part of the sport for the vast majority of climbers. In bouldering chalk is a crucial piece of equipment since poor friction can easily negate the strongest effort.

Over the past six months I have been trying out various chalks sent by manufacturers or purchased by me to see what if any differences there are between brands. In part this was prompted by some encounters with uneven batches of Metolius Super Chalk last year that had me wondering whether I was using something that was actually hindering my climbing.

I sent off emails to various manufacturers and received samples from Black Diamond, Metolius, So Ill and just recently received some product from my sponsor Moon Climbing. I also purchased some chalk under the Bison, Wild Country and Asana brands. My testing protocol is anything but systematic, involving trying the stuff out on various rock types including local sandstone, RMNP gneiss and plastic holds in various gyms.

According to information supplied by Metolius Climbing, chalk comes from mining deposits of limestone and dolomite which is then "processed into a variety of products, one of them being climbing chalk or magnesium carbonate." The chalk is purified, dried, and crumbled to a climber-friendly consistency before being packaged for distribution and sale. Metolius continues, "Depending on the manufacturer, some additives to aid in moisture absorption can be added to the chalk prior to packaging. Metolius additives are a food grade product."

When I started climbing the only choices were various forms of block chalk, most famously that marketed by Frank Endo. By the late 1990s designer chalk had emerged, most famously Metolius Super Chalk. At present there are at least the brands mentioned above as well as Petzl, and no doubt many more, including liquid chalk. There is more than an even chance of branded chalks leaving the same factory under different labels but surprisingly, differences between certain brands did emerge.

What am I looking for in a climbing chalk? Two primary qualities stand out: texture, especially a frictiony feel, and drying capacity. Texture is a subjective quality but there is a tendency in some chalks to have a smooth talc-like feel, something which I find is detrimental to a confident grip on the holds. The chalk should have just a bit of grit to it, in my view.

Then there is drying capacity. Chalk is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water from the atmosphere and from your fingers. This gives your fingers better adherence to the rock, but only up to a point. It may seem counter-intuitive but chalk should not entirely dry your hands out. Ask around and you may find that climbers will describe conditions that are too dry, where fingers suddenly snap off from holds in what is commonly called "dry-firing." For fingers to adhere well to rock, they have to have a little bit of give on the surface and hard glassy finger tips can be a liability. You may want to lightly dampen your tips and sand down any callouses for a better grip on cool dry days, especially if your fingers are naturally dry as mine are.

Chalk that is too dry or contains drying agents may actually be counterproductive in these conditions. More and more I find that manufacturers are opting away from drying agents and offering chalk that is 100% magnesium carbonate. The criteria I use for judging chalk quality are "hand feel," consistency, and moisture content. A good chalk in my view should have a slightly gritty feel, be reasonably chunky in consistency, and be just a bit moist. For bouldering in very dry conditions, such as are typical in Colorado, these characteristics are desirable. For bouldering in Alabama in June, a drier chalk with a drying agent may be desirable.

So which chalks were the best performers? For me, there were three standouts. Black Diamond White Gold Loose Chalk was excellent, a bit dry but with very good texture and consistency. The refillable canister is a sensible idea as well. I was also impressed by the feel of the Wild Country Pure Chalk which seemed to coat my fingers well with an initially damp layer that dried quickly to a sticky finish. Moon Climbing's Moon Dust seemed to sit between the two, with an excellent consistency and dry gritty feel, though softer than the Black Diamond brand.

Less desirable to my mind though still reliable were the Metolius block chalks and Super Chalk. These, the Asana White Dirt and So Ill's Prescription Chalk tended to have a more soft talc-like feel and did not adhere as well to my skin during problems. The least desirable of the chalks I tested was Bison Chalk which had an almost slippery feel to it, reducing friction compared to the other varieties.

My advice is to try out a number of different brands and see if they work well for you. The statement that "chalk is just chalk" is not exactly true.

I should add that I did not test the chalk ball options that are available as I have never liked them. A thoughtful and careful approach to applying loose chalk can reduce any extraneous dust issues. Some gyms require them but given the propensity for kids to throw them at each other, I am not sure that rule actually pays off.

A final thought. Chalk should be used sparingly and only to get the skin prepared for climbing. There is a point at which chalk becomes detrimental, interfering with the contact between skin and rock, so do not simply pile chalk onto holds. Never apply it to footholds. And please erase your tickmarks and scrub the holds clean after you are done with a problem and bring the rock as close as you can to a natural state.

Thanks again to the manufacturers and sales reps who assisted in providing product and information!

Another Spot Clinic this Wednesday

I am giving another clinic this Wednesday evening at the Spot from 5:30 to 6:30. The last one was booked solid and I expect a similar turnout again.

As the weather starts getting warmer, I am looking forward to returning to the alpine sites of Evans and RMNP and if you are looking to get the most out of visits up there, this might help. Call the gym at 303 379-8806 to get on the signup sheet.

R n J Clinic Tomorrow 6:30 pm

I am presenting my bouldering clinic tomorrow at Rock'n and Jam'n at 6:30 pm. I am going to be focusing on the same themes as my last BRC clinic. Close analysis of technique, assessing tactics, self-assessment of strengths and weaknesses, and climbing awareness are the primary elements. These factors can boost excellence in both bouldering and sport climbing.

Check out the gym's website and their blog as well. R&J is one of the best gyms on the Front Range, though I doubt I could summit out on the big lead wall at this point. Too many moves...

Compression and Crimping

One of the most important ideas I have begun to understand as I have worked on some of the testpieces at RMNP and closer to home is that for problems at your limit, merely hanging on to the holds is not enough. While it seems that the ability to deadhang small crimps would suffice to do a move on the same holds, for many problems this turns out to not be the case, even on apparently straightforward moves.

Factors that affect the move include poor or low footholds, the angle of the wall, and less-than-incut holds. In order to complete the move the climber must consistently keep footholds and handholds loaded to as high a degree as possible. This means that you cannot simply use the minimum degree of strength needed to grip the handhold, but that you must engage the move with a complete application of power through the whole body. Pulling in with the chest, stomach and hamstring has the effect of gluing your body in close to the wall, gaining maximum height with the move. On less than positive crimps, such a position allows you to gain the most opposition and friction.

I have fairly decent core strength in the sense that I typically can do a front lever without much effort. However that kind of strength is very one-dimensional and inadequate to the demands of high-end bouldering. I found for instance on European Human Being, the epitome of the crimp problem, that compression and absolute body tension are mandatory to make the best use of the very small holds. Simply hanging on was never enough.

When spending a lot of time sport climbing, I learned to try to allow your body to relax on the holds as much as possible. This is a formula for failure in hard bouldering as there are few stances or positions that allow any relaxation of the core and the configuration of the holds will generally not allow a simple clinging posture, even on an incut. So to get the most out of a move, especially in a steeper wall. stay in close, keep the core tension high and loosen up only when the move clearly requires or allows it.

What You Need for Winter Bouldering

A recent post by another avid boulderer here on the Front Range prompted a follow-up on a topic I have been meaning to write about for a while. As everyone knows summer is by far the worst season for bouldering, unless you are above 10,000 feet. For consistency in temps, the winter is one of the best seasons here in Boulder, but you have to come prepared. So what do you need to know to get the most out of winter sessions?

First, it helps to acclimate to sub-50 degree temperatures to begin with. Going straight out on a gray overcast 35 degree day kills motivation quickly. Make a habit of getting outside as often as possible on marginal days in spring and fall so you get comfortable with the routine of winter bouldering.

Use common sense when assessing conditions. For most avid boulderers, below freezing means an unproductive day ahead unless there is full-on sun. Best conditions rest between 35 and 55 degrees F in the shade. If there is a lot of wind, forget it. Windchill will sap your strength very quickly and numb your fingers immediately. A fresh fall of snow can be problematic, meaning carrying a shovel and broom, if you are serious about bouldering. The biggest problem can be seeping when snow begins to melt. Be wary of holds after a heavy freeze-thaw cycle as they are prone to snapping if any water gets behind them.

The type of problem should be considered as well. A short powerful problem on poor friction-dependent holds is a good choice as opposed to a longer one that may chill your fingers on link. Cooler air tends to be drier air meaning a stickier feel to the holds.

Winter bouldering begins with appropriate attire. Some recommend long underwear for really cold conditions which makes sense but I have rarely found this helpful as this often feels heavy. Heavier fabric trousers such as jeans are OK as long as they don't get wet and start to chill you. Wicking fabrics are generally a good idea, especially for upper body wear. I recommend a t-shirt, topped by a lightweight front-zip warm-up jacket that is wearable while bouldering. On top of this, a thick hooded sweatshirt and/or down jacket is good for staying warm between tries. Try to avoid anything you have to pull over your head to remove. For serious burns on boulder problems, you will probably get down to a t-shirt and pulling things off over you head can chill you quickly as it exposes your torso to the cold.

A thick warm hat is essential as are mittens or gloves. Footwear should reflect the approach conditions and allow your feet to stay warm and dry.

Other gear that can be handy would include handwarmers that can be stashed in pockets or a chalkbag, a headlamp or two for short winter days, and a tarp for managing snowy or muddy landings. As mentioned before, a lightweight broom is handy for clearing topouts and a shovel works well for digging out starts in late winter and early spring. Remember that a simple topout and/or descent can be difficult and even dangerous when covered in snow

It is helpful to get very warm on the approach. Overdressing is a good idea and if the approach is short, doing at least 10 minutes of aerobic exercise, fully dressed, before starting to climb. Bouldering easy problems is rarely much use. Beginning by doing some hangs and then trying moves on the project (which is the most likely reason you would climb in winter anyway) is probably best. Allowing your fingers to get numb while pulling hard and then letting them thaw back is the typical scenario.

Try to keep your hands warm between tries and stash your climbing shoes in an enclosed space such as a jacket pocket or a separate bag, maybe even with a handwarmer. Warm shoes are much easier to put on and retain sensitivity even in cold temps. Be aware that cold air can produce hard "glassy" finger tips. Bring some sandpaper or an emery board to get down to softer skin with better friction.

A generous amount of sweetened hot tea (lots of honey or brown sugar works for me) can be a real plus. I have also tried hot apple juice with success. If you bring food make sure it doesn't harden when it gets cold. Powerbars are notorious for this and can be inedible below 40 degrees. Trail mix with nuts, chocolate and dried fruit is a good calorie source in winter I have found.

One thing you should never do in winter is build a fire to stay warm. If you can't hack it without an open flame, best to stay indoors. This also applies to torching holds to dry them, a practice which can weaken holds and cause them to break. Both tactics are ultimately destructive to the environment.

The primary obstacles to having fun bouldering in winter are psychological. It may be as helpful to find a similarly obsessive partner as anything else you might do to prepare for winter. Good luck and stay warm!